The support sprues need to be cut and sanded down flush. I am using 6 pieces for a 9mm spacer. 8 pieces would be needed for a 12mm spacer. Some M2 brass spacers are slightly larger diameter and need to be filed down to fit the holes.
The pro micro could not be placed in the same position as on the Gherkin. The 5050 size WS2812B LEDs would touch the pins of the Pro Micro. These types of LEDs also come in a smaller 3535 size which would fit better.
The first version used a 1.6mm PCB. The LED would sit low in the opening and be difficult to solder to the board. With the 1.2mm PCB the pads on the LED are slightly raised above the PCB, making it easier to create the solder bridge to the PCB.
Completely disassembled a Jelly Comb TKL. Reused the switches, LEDs, and keycaps in a 30% with 16mm switch spacing.
The Jelly Comb TKL was $26 shipped from Amazon during a sale. This model is no longer available. The plate is aluminum and the body plastic. It had plate mount stabilizers. The LEDs were a different color in each row.
Tested the cutouts with Gateron and Cherry switches. Removed the USB notch in the top plate, it really was not needed. The new switch cutout also came closer to where the notch was, it would have been a weak spot. The notch in the bottom plate is slightly deeper so that some larger USB connectors will fit.
The top plate is not symmetrical. The USB connector would go on the end with the printing.
The plates allow for plate mount switches to be used. The new Kailh switches and the Cherry speed switches are currently only available in plate mount. The shorter actuation point and a shorter bottom out (with o-rings) might be an improvement.
I also printed a Pro Micro pin out diagram and some verbiage about the power pins on the bottom plate.